How To Use Glacage by Maison Blanche

glacage-maison-blanche

glacage-maison-blanche

It was another beautiful weekend here in Texas…blue skies and 70 something degrees.  I spent a perfect Saturday afternoon out in Pipe Creek with the Burlap Junkies at their new shop.

Under the trees, a small group of us learned how to use a product called Glacage.  French for icing (which is exactly what it looked like), this product creates a raised design that allows you to add a rich detail to anything you can think of.

From the Maison Blanche Paint line which Burlap Junkies carries exculsively, Glacage is a fun and easy way to make any stencil pop.

For this project, we started with salvaged long leaf pine cabinet doors (swoon).

long-leaf-pine-cabinet

We each picked our own paint color and put on the first coat.  Mine is Confederate Grey.  Let it dry completely.

confederate-grey

Next comes the fun application of Glacage in Turquoise (check with Burlap Junkies for additional colors).  Place the stencil with spray adhesive and apply the Glacage somewhat generously at an angle with a gift card, hotel room key or credit card.  Remove the stencil.

Mine came out a little gloppy in one spot, but Mrs. Burlap Junkie assured me it wouldn’t matter in the end.  The product will lighten up when it’s dry, which is when it’s ready for the next step.

glacage-with-stencil

Apply another coat of the paint, painting right over your stencil.

glacage-stencil

If you want a shabby looking piece, then go ahead and lightly sand your edges, avoiding the stencil for now.  Once you have the rest of the piece where you want it, go ahead and begin to gently sand over the Glacage.  The amount of color that you want to come through is completely up to you, so just sand until your heart is content.  You’ll want to use a piece of hand-held sand paper, as an electric sander would be to much for this application.

I guess i forgot the after-sanding picture, so on to the next step – the wax.  I opted for a dark wax to really give this piece an aged look.  The longer it sits, the darker it gets, so wipe off the wax whenever you’re ready.  Keep wiping until your piece is smooth.  Then deem it finished!

turquoise-glacage

Some hooks were added to created an adorable piece of hanging decor!  You could also use bent spoons on either end to create a serving tray.

glacage-on-cabinet-door

I love the subtlety of the detail and can’t wait to use this product on an upcoming project in my home!

I’d love to hear your thoughts and see any projects that you’ve done using Glacage.  Don’t forget to visit my friends over at Burlap Junkies to order your Maison Blanche Paint products!

Peace & Love,

Carrie

Using Gel Stain On Already Stained Wood

gel-stained-wood

gel-stained-wood

 

I have been dying to try out the gel stain sold by General Finishes for quiet some time.  I needed something small to use it on, so that I could see how well it works.  So often people want to re-stain their cabinets, but that can be an extensive and tedious job.  My hope was that the gel stain would prove to be the perfect solution for bringing outdated cabinets to life, as well as other wood treasures.  I love the idea of using gel stain on already stained wood instead of sanding down to the naked wood.

My sweet (and very trusting) friend had a unique magazine rack that she wanted updated, and gave me carte blanche with it.  Said friend and her husband have a beautiful home and exquisite taste, so I spent some time thinking about how to refinish it.  Here is what it looked like when I picked it up:

before-gel-stain

gel-stain-before

It’s such a unique piece, I was excited to revive it.  This was the perfect piece to try out the gel stain on, so I headed down to Woodcraft here in San Antonio, and picked up the supplies.

general-finishes-gel-stain

 

I decided on the Candelite color.

 

gel-stained

 

Part of the success to using stain over the previous stain is sanding.  After a thorough cleaning, I gave it a light sanding all over using 220 grit.  I wiped it down again, making sure to remove all of the dust from sanding.

I then began applying the gel stain with a lint-free cloth.

 

applying-gel-stain

candelite-gel-stain

The great thing about stain is that you don’t have to be an expert to apply it.  The only thing you need to know is use a clean, soft cloth and don’t stop moving.  If you leave it sitting for too long without rubbing it in, you will have weird marks that you won’t be able to get rid of without sanding.

The gel stain takes a little longer to dry, which worked to my advantage.  I started to apply the second coat while the first coat was still sticky, creating a more aged look.  If you prefer an even tone, then wait for the first coat to dry before applying a second one, if a deeper tone is desired.

Be sure and rub the stain into all of the blemishes so that it adds more character.

gel-stained gel-stain-on-wood

 

To add a little interest to this piece, I decided to add a some color using General Finishes Milk Paint in Basil.

 

basil-general-finishes

 

I put a couple of light coats on the bands of the magazine rack, and then sanded it once it dried. 

 

gel-stained-magazine-rack

gel-stain-and-milk-paint

gel-stain-on-stained-wood

gel-stain-and-milk-paint

I love the detail on the back…

 

gel-stain-general-finishes

I’m thrilled with how this product works, and can’t wait to use it on some bigger projects!  And I’m really excited to deliver this refinished magazine rack to my friend.

Peace & Love,

Carrie

Antique Mirror Makeover

antique-mirror

antique-mirror

I had a major score today when I dropped by Habitat For Humanity.  Seriously, if you aren’t shopping there, you really should.  Not only can you find great treasures for yourself, you will also be helping out those in need of a home!  Sometimes it’s a bust, but today I spotted a hidden gem, just laying around amongst a pile of junk. Yes, there she was, an antique mirror that I quickly brought home and gave a makeover.  Take a look at the before: 

gold-antique-mirror

It does have a piece of molding missing, but I don’t really care.  The structure and detail of this mirror makes me so happy.  You might be wondering how I can tell it’s an antique?  Well, you see, it’s very scientific.  First, I could barely carry it, so I knew it was well made, unlike the cheaply made things of today.  Next, it had remanence of the paper backing often found on old photos and wall art. Lastly, it smelled.  Like really bad.  You know what I’m talking about?  That old, musty, I’ve been living in a haunted attic, smell?  Yeah, it smells like that.  Now, don’t try these tricky, antique-detecting measures on your own – please, leave it to us professionals.

I decided she needed some turquoise paint, so I busted out my Maison Blance chalk paint in Riviera, and dry-brushed it on.  Here are the results.

antique-gold-mirror

antique-gold-mirror

turquoise-antique-mirror

I’m really not trying to be artistic with my photos here, but photographing a mirror is hard!  It reflects all the crap you have laying around.  Not pretty.

Now, one last look at the before, and the “I could just die, I love it so much” after.

habitat-found-antique-mirror

gold-and-turquoise-antique-mirrorA light sanding revealed even more of the gold, and I could not be happier with the color combination!  This antique mirror makeover was the perfect project for this Fall day.  I  just love it – how about you?

Peace & Love,

Carrie

Painting A Trunk

trunk-painted

trunk-painted

 

Welcome to the first Makeover Monday with Her Hippie Heart!  Starting today, I will be sharing tips on making over everything from, found “treasures” to entire rooms.  Make sure that you’re subscribed so you don’t miss out on all the things featured here!

Have you ever thought about painting a trunk, but weren’t too sure how it would turn out?  Or maybe you’ve never thought about painting a trunk, but you’re ears just perked up?  I’m kind of  paint junky, so it always occurs to me to paint stuff, but the painted trunks turned out to be a total win, in my book.

The trunk that I’m featuring today was beautiful all on it’s own.  Well-made, with gorgeous detail.  Some might find it painful and even wrong to paint such a stunner, and I do understand that.  Some people are purists…loyalists.  I heart you.  I really do.  But I just can’t help myself!  I NEED to find out what will happen if I dab a little paint on there.  It makes me happy.  But please, all of you purists, keep fighting the good fight!  Don’t let us painty types get our hands on everything!! 😉  Here she is before: (please, DON’T ask me why the pic is sideways, because I just.  Don’t. Know.)

 

trunk-before-paint

 

And here she is after: (FYI, I used Cobblestone by Maison Blanche Paint Company)

 

trunk-painted

 

Now, I didn’t get a bunch of action shots on this piece, but once you learn how easy it is, you’ll forgive me.  I hope.

First, pick a paint color and start brushing it on the trunk.  Don’t try to cover it completely, just get a first coat on.

 

painting-a-trunk

 

Then, when the first coat is dry, do another coat just like that, applying circular and long strokes with your brush.  If your satisfied with that shabby look (like I was on this piece), then stop there.  For a more finished look, keep adding coats until you’re happy.

 

trunk-with-paint

 

On this piece, I painted over everything – the metal, wood & hardware.  Then I took 220 grit sandpaper, and lightly sanded it by hand until I achieved the shabby look I wanted.  I absolutely LOVE how the detail on the metal edges popped out!

 

painted-trunk

 

This wasn’t the first trunk I painted, but it’s certainly my favorite so far! Here’s another example of how you can bring a trunk to life:

 

painted-trunk-2

 

I showed you mine, now show me yours!  Send me some pics. 🙂

Peace & Love,

Carrie

 

 

 

 

How To Update an Ikea Dresser

Tarva MakeoverSince moving into our new (old) home, my husband has been in need of a dresser.  And since I love to paint furniture, I thought it would be easy to find something sleek that I could make look rugged and manly.  However I was having a hard time finding just the right thing until I saw some Ikea dresser make-overs on Pinterest.  I’m always up for a trip to Ikea, and after looking through the catalog that I had on hand, I knew the 6-drawer Tarva would be perfect. So, here is how to update an Ikea dresser (one of a zillion ways, I’m sure).

Now, I won’t lie to you.  While a piece of Ikea furniture is going to save you some cash, assembling it will cost you the better part of a day and a fair amount of your sanity.  There will be moments that you want to scream at the pudgy little Ikea guy on the instructions, who is surely mocking you, and curse the store as a whole for not writing out the instructions.  But persevere, it will be worth it.

Tarva Makeover

Sadly, I didn’t get a bunch of great pictures of the process I used to makeover this dresser, but here’s how I achieved the above look, step by step:

  1. Assembled the piece (Grrr…).
  2. Painted all the drawers white.
  3. Sanded the drawers with a 120 grit, making the wood bare in spots.
  4. Went over the drawers with a natural colored wood stain.
  5. Went over all the drawers again with an ebony wood stain.
  6. When the stain was COMPLETELY dry, I used 150 grit sandpaper to sand them to my desired look.
  7. Stained the top of the dresser with ebony.
  8. Painted the sides and legs with Coco from Annie Sloan (I just purchased a small container).
  9. Sanded the top of the dresser with 150 grit sandpaper.
  10. Put Annie Sloan clear wax over the entire piece.
  11. Lightly sanded over the wax with a 220 grit sandpaper.
  12. Spray painted the wooden knobs with hammered pewter.
  13. Dabbed a bit of Coco chalk paint over the spray paint on the knobs.
  14. Screwed the knobs to the dresser.

Tarva Makeover Tarva Makeover Tarva Makeover

My husband loved the way his new dresser turned out, and the pictures certainly don’t do it justice (bad lighting).

The cool thing about a raw piece of furniture, is that your options are limitless!  So use your imagination and come up with a one-of-a-kind piece of your own.

Peace & Love,

Carrie

DIY – {Almost} Perfect Stripes on Textured Walls!

stripes-on-textured-walls

stripes-on-textured-walls

I don’t know how it is in every state, but if you live in Texas, and have a home that was built in the last 20 years, then you most likely have heavily textured walls.  The heavy texture is great for hiding construction imperfections, but can be the downright nemesis of an interior painter, like myself, who just wants to make their clients’ Pinterest dreams come true.  Certain faux finishes, walls covered in stencils and perfect stripes are all challenged to a face-off by that pesky texture.  I’m not sure where the walls are in all those precious DIY painting books and perfectly poised Pinterest posts, but they ain’t in Texas.

So, if you’ve got textured walls and want some stripes, but don’t really have the wherewithal to re-mud all the walls into a nice, smooth surface, then this tutorial will help you get {almost} perfect striped walls.  And if you’re one of those people with smooth walls (don’t go bragging about it), then these tips will work for you too – just omit the caulking step.

Step 1:

Paint all the walls in the color that you prefer as dominant.  This means painting a good, finished coat, completely cut-in as if it were the only color.  If you’re doing equal stripes (like the room shown), then use the lighter color as the base.  If you’re using the same color in differing sheens, then use the flattest sheen first.

Step 2:

For vertical stripes: Beginning in the corner closest to the backside of the door, start measuring out where you want your stripes to be.  Use a pencil to mark each measurement.  (The ones pictured are 6 inches apart equally, and of course you can do any size you prefer, even a combination of sizes.)  Place a level vertically against the mark and make sure that the bubble is centered.  Once you’re level, go ahead and run your pencil alongside it to create a line.  Move your level up or down, depending on where you start, to finish out the line.  Don’t forget to make sure you are still level!

20150225_174649195_iOS (2)

For horizontal stripes: This one is much easier…figure out where you want the bottom of the stripe to be, and place the level horizontally in that spot (again, starting from the corner behind the door, or nearest the backside of the door).  Make sure you’re level and drag the pencil along the top side.  Keep moving the level all the way around the room until you have the bottom of the stripe completed.  Now, measure out where you want the top of the stripe to go, and do the same process over again.  Never forget to continue checking the little bubble on your level! 

Step 3:

Using painter’s tape, tape off the stripes.  You want to make sure that the tape is sitting just along the outside of the pencil mark where your stripe will be.  This way, when you fill in the stripe, you will cover up the pencil mark as well.  *Note: your mind will start to play tricks on you during this process!  You’ll have to pay close attention to where your putting your tape so you’re stripes come out the way you intended them to. 🙂

 

Painting Stripes

Step 4:

This step is the magic behind getting {almost} perfect stripes on a textured wall!  It’s the DAP painter’s acrylic latex caulk.  This is the only kind you can use.  Trust me, I’ve tried others and they don’t work.  I’m a die-hard Sherwin Williams Paint fan, but their “paintable” caulk, did not serve me well for this type of project.  Take the caulk and squeeze it into a damp towel and begin working it into the inside line of your tape, filling all the crevices that the texture creates.  Do this all the way around the room, only on the interior side of the stripe (the side receiving the paint).

Painting StripesPainting Stripes

Step 5:

Paint the stripes! It’s a lot of work getting to this point, but well worth it once you see how amazing your stripes look.  My suggestion is to take a small roller to fill in the stripes, using a paint brush to fill in along the ceiling and baseboards.  *Important!!  As soon as you are able, pull the tape off!  You don’t want to let it sit too long because it could pull of the dried paint.  If you don’t need a second coat of paint on the stripes, pull the tape off as you go.  If a second coat is necessary, then pull the tape off as soon as you can.  After the tape is removed, you can take an artists paint brush and fill in any remaining pencil marks, or straighten up any noticeably uneven lines.

IT WILL NOT BE PERFECT.  My suggestion, is to step out of the room for a bit, and come back in and see what jumps out at you.  Fix those spots ONLY.  Otherwise, you’ll make yourself crazy!  And I cannot be responsible for your mental health – I have too much going on.

painting_stripes

Enjoy your hard-earned, beautiful, {almost} perfect stripes!  And send me some pics too. 🙂

Peace & Love,

Carrie